There's nothing warmer and livelier than mustard, whether it's a bright yellow ballpark-and-hot-dog mustard or a subtle gourmet Dijon. You can make your own from the seeds (black, brown, and yellow) of the mustard plant, or from mustard powder, ground coarse or fine. (Either can be purchased in bulk in specialty food shops.) Or start with prepared mustard and add your own herbs. To one cup of Dijon-style mustard, add one-quarter cup dried herbs (or one-half cup finely-chopped fresh herbs) and one and one-half tablespoons dry white wine. Place in lidded jar and refrigerate for a week before using. Keeps up to 3 months. Here are some zesty herbal combos:

• basil and chives, with red wine
• thyme, parsley, and marjoram, with one clove garlic, minced
• tarragon, or tarragon, basil, and thyme
• horseradish (1-2 tablespoons prepared or grated), with one clove garlic, minced
• one-quarter cup finely minced or grated fresh ginger root, 2 tablespoons minced candied ginger, 2 tablespoons honey